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Galen's RO Waste Water Reclaim
with Pat Hall's pictures too.

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1 inch Dema
valve

Both Laser holding
tanks

Dema valve, PVC
into tank

Sump type
float switch

Transformer

Holding tank

I'm recycling the RO waste water to the rinse water on the automatic. Took a pickup truck tank and put it up higher than the holding tank on the auto. Then got two dema valves and a float switch. And about 20 feet of 1 1/2 PVC.

The plastic holding tank is what farmers buy around the Midwest to put in the back of their trucks to haul water to stock animals. If you try to buy a large plastic tank from any other place you will pay much more. It has a 2" fitting on the bottom.

Just take the water you are sending to the drain now and run it to the tank. Also you need to connect another hose to the side of the tank for overflow, in case it should overfill. Come out with large pipe because this is gravity flow so you need to oversize it to get volume. Put a ball valve on so you can work on anything down stream.

The PVC is cheap and easy to work with so if you make a mistake just cut it off and try again. I used the largest dema solenold valve I could get my hands on which was 1", but bigger is better. This item will get expensive fast if you go big. The reason I didn't go with a mechanical float valve is that they need more pressure behind them to shut off completely. So if you were to use that kind of valve it would always leak.

Then just elbow it down into the tank about 4 or 5 inches off the bottom. This now give you a base or a platform to mount your float valve. I did use two different kinds of float valves, just experimenting with it now to see which one works best, if you look at the pictures you can see the two different ones. One is mounted on the side of the tank and has a wire going down inside the tank with two little black weights. The other is a sump type float that is easier to mount but the down side to this type is that the water has to drop down further for it to switch on. The only adjustment on this is how long the cable is from where you mount it to the side of the pipe going down in the tank. See picture This is what is called throw. The longer the cable from the pipe the higher and lower the water gets in the tank, vise versa if you make the cable shorter. but I have found that the very shortest I can set this is still not as much control as I'd like.

As far as getting into the wiring its all 24 volts because your working around water. Just run one side of the 24 volts (it doesn't matter which common or hot) to one of the wires on the solenoid valve. the other wire (from the transformer) goes to one of the wires on the float switch, the other wire on the float switch goes to the remaining wire on the solenoid valve. to complete the circuit. Hope this is not too overly simplistic of an explanation.

 

Did some fine tuning because it overflowed twice. Its got to be set up just right. So far I'm using all of the RO waste water.

When the bottom basters come on, the fresh water valve doesn't even come on. This should lower the water bill.

This is for two automatics.

So far I have $120 in the tank which is a 210 gal,
$45 each in two dema valves,
$20 in 1 1/2 PVC pipe,
$8 for elbows,
$34 each for two float switches to turn on the dema valves,
$24 for a 24 volt transformer to power the valves,
$7 each for two 1 1/2 plastic ball valves.

Pat Hall's Setup Similar but Different

 
Tanks
picture002.jpg
Plumbing
picture003.jpg
Motor/Expansion Tank
picture004.jpg
Info

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