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Detailers need expertise in this area of carpet
& upholstery care
One area of detailing that has most detailers struggling
is the area of stain removal. When I first entered the industry
it surprised me how little attention was paid to stain removal.
You did not, and even today, do not find chemical companies promoting
stain removal products for the many and varied stains that might
be encountered in automobile interiors.
What I hope to do with this month's article is to
provide you with some professional incites into stain removal, and
like so many things help you "to know what you don't know."
Identifying Troublesome Stains
Like anything in this business, if you are to remedy
the problem, you have to be able to identify the stain first. The
best way to know the "what" of a stain is to ask the customers.
If they don't know, then it is up to you to be the diagnostician.
It all begins with analytical observation:
1. First, make a visual examination, taking note of
the color of the stain.
2. Next, the tone of the carpet
3. Determine the depth of penetration
4. Is the origin of the stain at the top or the base of the tufts.
Professionals in the carpet and upholstery cleaning
industry offer numerous methods that can be used to determine some
of the basic stains.
Water can be helpful in a visual examination. For
example, pour a little water on the stain and if it beads up you
have an "oil-based" stain. If the water dissolves then it a water-based
stain.
If you cannot determine the type of stain by visual
examination, you can use a less conventional method. For example,
smell" is often a very good indicator. Some stains give off a very
pungent odor, providing clues as to what they might be. For example,
urine; milk; wine; beer. If you no smell, then other steps must
be taken.
Knowing the Basics
Most stains break down into four catagories: ·
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Water stains that leave rings ·
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Fiber stains resulting from some type of colored
liquid ·
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Stains that result in discoloration of fibers
- bleach and urine ·
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Stains that are due to liquid containing corrosive
elements such as - wine; food coloring; rusty water; blood;
sweat ·
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Stains from solid deposits like wax; paint;
food grease; glues
You will find that the first three types of stains
will usually require water and a basic cleaner. The fourth type
of stain will require a type of organic solvent. For example, a
greasy stain a cleaner with an emulsifier will break down the stain
for effective removal.
Probably the most difficult stain to remove from carpets
and upholstery is anything with a greasy substance in it. The number
one problem stain is "coffee."
The Stain Removers
Solvents and reagents can be placed into four groups,
which contain a related substance:
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Non-water mixable solvents which are called
hydro-carbons or chlorinated hydrocarbons such as d-Limonene
(a natural solvent from the peels of citrus fruits).
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Water-soluble solvents such as glycols, for
example ethanol and ketones such as acetones
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Detergents that are neutral such as ammonia
or rust removers · Detergents that are protein-based.
If the origin of the stain cannot be determined you
may want to try these suggestions in treating the stain:
1. Dissolve it
2. Suspend it with a detergent spotter
3. Digest it with the enzymes bacteria approach
Remove Residue
One of the biggest offenses that most detailers make
it that they do not remove what they put into carpets and upholstery.
For example, the typical practice for cleaning carpets/upholstery
is to spray or splash the shampoo on the surface; brush it in and
vacuum with a shop vacuum.
The rule is: "anything you put into the fibers MUST
be removed." If you do not then the residue that is left will make
the carpet resoil much faster because you are leaving soap or detergents;
solvents in the fibers and you are not going to get them out with
a vacuum only.
Not only will it make the stain worse, but the cleaning
agents are capable of making a stain surface again.
Reappearance of soil can happen for two reasons:
Inefficient removal of a stain will create further
problems. If you do not get the stain out completely it could attract
other residues so that you may end up with a completely different
stain than you started with.
Research indicates that using two mixable ingredients
that do not have the same elements, one being more volatile than
the other, can assist in remoing stains. For example, when water
is used, apply isopropyl alcohol around the damaged area. By doing
this the water will dry out quicker which helps to prevent rings
from appearing
Probably one of the hardest stains to remove are "water-based
red dye stains." Kool-Aid is one of the hardest, if not the hardest
stain to remove from carpets. Try the following steps to remove
a red dye stain:
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If still wet, use an absorbent cloth or an
extractor to remove as much of the stain as possible
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Treat with a special spot-remover formulated
for red dyes · Allow the remover to dwell for 3 to 5 minutes
and then blot or extract
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You can also use the heat transfer method whereby
after applying the remover place a clean white towel over the
spot and place a steam iron on top of the towel to draw out
the red dye.
If this doesn't work you can attempt these steps:
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Apply an acid-based cleaner to neutralize the
stain. Be sure to follow the use of an acid-based cleaner with
an application of a mild alkaline product to return to a normal
pH.
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Thoroughly rinse the entire area with cold water.
Facts About Fibers
There are fibers that are less susceptible to staining
than others. Nylon is one of these, and we are fortunate that nylon
is the fiber most used in automobile interiors. Nylon's soft-texture
resists most food and beverage stains, and some oil-based stains.
Nylon fibers are also easy to clean and only absort about 7% of
moisture.
Stains on non-resistent fibers penetrate into little
holes in the fibers called dye sites. Coffee for example, gets into
these holes and dries. Eventually the stain seeeps up from the dye
sites and comes to the surface. Sometimes after you have spot-treated
a stain and shampooed the carpets/upholstery the stain will reappear
in a few days. This is called "wicking." It is sometimes necessary
to go over a stain two or three times to truely remove it so that
it will not reappear.
Educating the Detailer
Improper carpet/upholstery care is simply due to improper
end-user training. If products are not use properly they will cause
stains/spots/soil to reappear.
When you consider the cost of today's automobiles
it is frightening how littel training there is among detailers.
Whose fault is it? On one side you could say the detailers, however
as a supplier to the industry I believe the fault lies solidly on
the shoulders of the "detail chemical suppliers."
Far to few chemical suppliers and their distributors
provide any kind of legitimate training for the detailer in basic
areas of cleaning, let alone speciailzed areas such as stain/spot
removers. I can testify to that by the number of "professional"
detailers to whom I have provided training that tell me their chemical
suppliers didn't teach them that, or told them that they could use
engine degreaser for everything.
And, there is also a tremendous lack of training available
from the "industry association." More often than not, we get calls
from detailers who have been referred to our company the the :"industry
association."
Summary
Remember, there are no fast answers for stain removal,
many factors must be taken into consideration when dealing with
stains. Key is to educate your customers that a "stain" must be
taken care of immediately. Get them to come to you immediately after
a spill, etc. Indicate that the stain can more easily be removed
before it dries.
And, if you are armed with the proper knowledge and
chemicals and training you can make stain removal quite simple. |
