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to pressurize or not to pressurize your infloor glycol

piperken

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I have researching the idea of pressurizing the glycol in the floor heating system. Presently my floor heat is not pressurized only gravity with a bit of pressure from the pump but it is an open system prone to getting air and the odd time cavitating at the pump. if i pressurized the system it would eliminate air and possibly get better flow and heat transfer to the bays. Any comments on this would be appreciated. thanks
 

Kevin James

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I don't understand. You have a gravity system but you have a pump that circulates the glycol into the floor heat tubes.
 

piperken

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I don't understand. You have a gravity system but you have a pump that circulates the glycol into the floor heat tubes.
the system is open to the air. the glycol flows into a box and is pumped via the pump through the bays. the older carwashes were made this way, no pressure. the new car washes apparently are made with 10 to 15 pounds of pressure and its sealed so not to allow air into the system.
 

PaulLovesJamie

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no, I am not an engineer, but since the smart people havent responded yet I'll throw my understanding out there for you.

It's not a matter of older vs newer, systems are designed to be open/closed based on the heating requirements, hardware (ie boiler design), and regulatory issues (eg if you pressurize it you might need an annual inspection). "Older" boilers that were commonly used in the car wash industry 20 - 30 years ago (and still are btw) often used an open system. And still do. I'm guessing that the newer systems you mention are the instantaneous heaters that a lot of us on this forum have installed over the last decade, and yes pressurizing for those systems works better.

But it is my understanding that pressurizing - in a car wash floor heat system - is done for 2 reasons.
a) overcome head, in other words height. If you have to pump up 10 feet, you need a closed system & a calculated amount of pressure.
b) pump efficiency, for example the fractional amperage taco pumps that a lot of use use work better with pressure.

Pressurizing is not going to get air out of your system, and it is not going to improve the heat transfer in your bays.
Now, it might allow you to better adjust you flow rates which might improve your overall efficiency, but thats beyond my ability to calculate offhand.
 

piperken

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no, I am not an engineer, but since the smart people havent responded yet I'll throw my understanding out there for you.

It's not a matter of older vs newer, systems are designed to be open/closed based on the heating requirements, hardware (ie boiler design), and regulatory issues (eg if you pressurize it you might need an annual inspection). "Older" boilers that were commonly used in the car wash industry 20 - 30 years ago (and still are btw) often used an open system. And still do. I'm guessing that the newer systems you mention are the instantaneous heaters that a lot of us on this forum have installed over the last decade, and yes pressurizing for those systems works better.

But it is my understanding that pressurizing - in a car wash floor heat system - is done for 2 reasons.
a) overcome head, in other words height. If you have to pump up 10 feet, you need a closed system & a calculated amount of pressure.
b) pump efficiency, for example the fractional amperage taco pumps that a lot of use use work better with pressure.

Pressurizing is not going to get air out of your system, and it is not going to improve the heat transfer in your bays.
Now, it might allow you to better adjust you flow rates which might improve your overall efficiency, but thats beyond my ability to calculate offhand.
ive been checking around and alot of car washes still have open systems running with no problem. i know of one car wash , 3 bay had the same problem as myself in that the bays were freezing up . so this fellow flushed out the system and recharged it with less percentage propanol and it worked fine after that. His boiler was 300000 btu and mine is 105000. I think i might pay me better to forget the closed system , get a bigger boiler and maybe up the size of my pump hp.
 

piperken

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I had a truck that would overheat sitting at a light, even without the A/C on. I replaced literally every part of the cooling system and it never changed. I put a bottle of Red Line's Water Wetter in it and it was fine afterward. It says it can be used with propylene glycol.

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-802...d=1553176667&s=gateway&sr=8-1&tag=googhydr-20
i would guess and say it makes the liquid more slippery so it moves better through the system. And cleans it.
 

MEP001

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It says it improves heat transfer to the liquid, so it should improve both the leeching of heat from the boiler and the transfer of heat to the concrete.
 
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