R.O. Reject to IBA Tank

[Bubbles Galore]

I am working on some upgrades to my spot free system from a capacity standpoint and want to ensure I don't just "throw away" the reject water as it seems like a lot of you are using it.

My Washworld Razor fill tank uses city water pressure and a 1" Solenoid valve to fill the tank when signaled from the control cabinet. With an elevated storage tank, can I use a valve like this to fill my main tank with my R.O. reject water?

Both valves would need to remain, because I don't want to solely rely on the R.O. reject in case the demand is too high. I would like to keep it as simple as possible without having to add a small pump or something along those lines.

Thoughts?

 

[cdreed06]

We use the reject water and city water in our IBA. If the reject gets too low it refills with city water. Our valves are solenoid valves operated by electric float switches. I would think the valve you are showing would work though.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

If you can mount the tank in the eq. room higher than the HP pump the extra valving is totally unnecessary. What I did was just mounted the tank next to my pump stand. I disconnected the original tank and plumbed the HP pump to the new tank. I set my float switches (the ones previously in the original tank) at about 6" and 12". I moved the fill plumbing from the original tank and had it dump right into the manhole. Any reject water also dumped right in there as well. With the top fill switch set at 12" this left room for about 225 gallons of reject water in this 4' tall tank. All it takes to do this is a tank and moving some plumbing. Most people that want to catch reject get hung up on transfering the reject water from the catch tank to the original tank. Don't use the original tank and this job is much easier, not to mention cheaper.

I copied this from one of my older posts on this subject. There is also drawings of my system somewhere here and in the SSCWN from a couple years back. I'll see if I can find it.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Here it is

http://forum.autocareforum.com/showthread.php?t=7720&highlight=reject&page=2

The drawing is in post 4.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

If you can mount the tank in the eq. room higher than the HP pump the extra valving is totally unnecessary. What I did was just mounted the tank next to my pump stand. I disconnected the original tank and plumbed the HP pump to the new tank. I set my float switches (the ones previously in the original tank) at about 6" and 12". I moved the fill plumbing from the original tank and had it dump right into the manhole. Any reject water also dumped right in there as well. With the top fill switch set at 12" this left room for about 225 gallons of reject water in this 4' tall tank. All it takes to do this is a tank and moving some plumbing. Most people that want to catch reject get hung up on transfering the reject water from the catch tank to the original tank. Don't use the original tank and this job is much easier, not to mention cheaper.

I copied this from one of my older posts on this subject. There is also drawings of my system somewhere here and in the SSCWN from a couple years back. I'll see if I can find it.

The only issue I see for my setup is trying to determine how I can get a 2" feed line to my 3535 to ensure I'm not starving it for water. It's not easily accessible as it sits...